Get Off-The-Beaten Path on a Downeast Maine Road Trip

If you say Maine road trip, most people will think Kennebunkport, Portland, Bar Harbor, Acadia National Park — maybe even Ogunquit, Boothbay Harbor, or Rockland. But that is where everyone goes.

If you want to avoid the hordes that descend on Maine each summer and the high prices that they bring, you need to get away from the beaches and midcoast. Head either into the Maine Highlands, or, if coast is what you crave, try this Downeast Acadia Maine road trip.

With over 35,000 square miles to explore in Maine, it isn’t that hard to get off-the-beaten path. One county in Maine is even bigger than Connecticut and Rhode island combined! Not as many visitors make their way further northeast past Bar Harbor to the region known as Downeast Acadia.

Yet here you will find picturesque lighthouses, scenic drives, rocky coasts, sandy beaches, and coastal farms.

West Quoddy Lighthouse in Lubec
West Quoddy Head Light

Downeast Maine Road Trip Itinerary

This post was written as part of a paid partnership with the Downeast Acadia Regional Tourism board. I loved my visit to this region and all opinions are my own.

The Downeast region incorporates Mount Desert Island (home to Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park) and extends east along the coast to the Canadian border of New Brunswick. This Maine road trip is easy to combine with a New Brunswick road trip, a Maine coast road trip, or a Maine Highlands road trip if you have more time.

Ready to see puffins, lighthouses, and spectacular scenery? Follow along…

Getting There

Greetings from Bangor mural

If you are flying into Maine, you will want to arrive into Bangor International Airport (BGR) to start your Maine road trip. From Bangor, it is a quick one-hour drive “downeast” to Winter Harbor. You will want to make a stop in Ellsworth on your way in and acclimate to the Maine food and craft beer scene with lunch in the outdoor beer garden at Fogtown Brewing. If that is not your scene, have lunch by the river at Union River Lobster Pot.

Driving to Maine? If you have time, start off with a coastal Maine road trip. Otherwise, take the fast route to Winter Harbor (4.5 hours from Boston on Interstate 95) to kick off your trip. Once you pass Ellsworth you will enter the Schoodic National Scenic Byway, one of many gorgeous scenic byways you will drive on this Maine road trip.

If you have kids that need a break to stretch their legs, stop at some of the many scenic overlooks and byway stops that offer KidsQuest activities for kids, including learning about reversing waterfalls, train stations, or the area’s history in granite production.

Be sure to stop at the Frenchman Bay Scenic Turnout to take in the view. Right next to the pull out, you can pop into Dunbar’s country store to pick up a picnic lunch and enjoy it at the next picnic area on Route 186 before arriving in Winter Harbor.

While many people choose to stay in or around Bar Harbor, if you are looking for something quieter, Winter Harbor is your pick.

waves crashing on the rocks at high tide at Schoodic point
Schoodic Point at high tide

Days 1-3: Acadia & the Schoodic Peninsula

If you want to avoid crowds, I would suggest you just skip Bar Harbor and the Mount Desert Island (MDI) section of Acadia National Park entirely since there are so many things to do outside of Acadia. However, if you just need to see it, you can always take the ferry from Winter Harbor over to Bar Harbor.

If you do decide to add on a day or two to this Maine road trip to stay in Bar Harbor, keep in mind that you need advance reservations to see the sunrise from the top of Cadillac Mountain. For accommodations, I’d recommend a glamping experience at Terramor Outdoor Resort. I’ve stayed in a lot of glamping resorts and this is without a doubt one of the best.

Winter Harbor is a charming and quieter alternative to the touristy Bar Harbor. You aren’t going to find the same shops and hotels that you find on MDI, but you will find authentic Mainers and a quaint downtown with a few galleries and a small handful of restaurants.

Boathouse at MainStay Cottages and RV park in Winter Harbor Maine at sunset
Boathouse at MainStay Cottages and RV Park at sunset

Where to Stay in Winter Harbor

I absolutely LOVED my stay in the boathouse at MainStay Cottages and RV Park. This small collection of cottages and campsites right on the water is a great home base for exploring the Schoodic Peninsula. These cottages are on the smaller side so if you are visiting with a family, I’d recommend checking vrbo or Airbnb and renting a vacation home for a few days. There is also camping available in the park at the Schoodic Woods Campground (reservations required.)

Schoodic Section of Acadia National Park

view from the top of Schoodic Mountain
View from Schoodic Mountain

If you arrive in time, head into the Schoodic Section of Acadia National Park (just five minutes from Winter Harbor to the entrance) and drive down to Schoodic Point for sunset. This can be an especially dramatic view when it is high tide and the waves are crashing against the rocks.

On your second day, you will want to spend most of the day in the Schoodic Section of Acadia National Park, the only section actually on the mainland. The Schoodic Peninsula has been inhabited by the Maliseet, Micmac, Passamaquoddy, and Penobscot Native American peoples (collectively known as the Wabanaki) for millennia.

Schoodic Point was originally settled during the American Revolution by Thomas Frazier, an African American man who is honored at Frazer Point, the first viewpoint along the six-mile, one-way loop through the park.

You can bike or drive through the park, just keep in mind that parking at the trailheads and pull-offs is limited, so if you are driving, it pays to go early (but not crazy early like other parks.) An alternative is taking the free Island Explorer shuttle bus.

For a simple hike, you can try the Sundew Trail on Schoodic Point, just park at the ballfields by the Schoodic Institute. Another family-friendly hike, but one with some rocks and roots and a bit of a climb at the end, try the .6 mile (one way) Alder trail to the Schoodic Head Trail (.6 miles) to the summit with views of Frenchman Bay and Mount Desert Island.

For more of a challenge, you can go up the Anvil Trail (1.1 miles) and down Alder. Just keep in mind that Anvil is a bit steeper and can be a little hard to follow at times. Another option is to scramble across the rocks between the peninsula and Little Moose Island at low tide to explore the island and look for harbor seals (just make sure to check the tide charts!) A good spot to do this is from a small pull-out between the turn-off for Schoodic Point and the parking area at Blueberry Hill.

Lobster roll from Lunch on the Wharf in Corea
Lobster roll from Lunch on the Wharf in Corea

Where to Eat Near Winter Harbor

There aren’t any services in the park, but you can pack a picnic or pop out for lunch in Winter Harbor or Birch Harbor. Local favorites include the Pickled Wrinkle in Birch Harbor (followed by ice cream at Me and Ben’s next door) or Lunch on the Wharf for a fresh lobster roll on the water in Corea, or down-home cooking try Chase’s in Winter Harbor.

For sunset, stop by the Prospect Harbor Town Pier near Birch Harbor for a great view of the harbor and Prospect Harbor Lighthouse. You can also see the largest lobsterman in Maine!

If You Have More Time

3 puffins in the water

If you want to spend more time in this area, you won’t regret it. Within the park, you can take Schoodic Head Road, a gravel road 2.5 miles from the park entrance with a one-mile drive to a summit at 440 ft above sea level with views of Egg Rock Lighthouse to the west and Petit Manan Light to the east.

Another great spot to see the sunset is Ravens Nest in the Schoodic section of Acadia National Park. This is unmarked and not even included on the park map, but a short walk takes you to cliffs that look across the water to Mount Desert Island and is a beautiful sunset viewing point. Just be careful, especially after dark. To find the trail, stop at the third pull-off on the side of the road after starting the loop road. There is a little unmarked trail beginning on the other side of the road from the pull-off.

From Winter Harbor, you can also take a puffin tour with Acadia Puffin, rent kayaks or bikes from Sea Schoodic Kayak & Bike, take a lobster boat tour from Corea, take a hike at the Schoodic Bog Trail in Sullivan or the Taft Point Preserve in Gouldsboro, or check out the mansions and view from Grindstone Neck and Grindstone Point.

You can also visit Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island — just be prepared for more crowds!

Day 4-5: Bold Coast Scenic Byway to Machias

After exploring the Schoodic Peninsula, it is time to continue your road trip Downeast to the town of Milbridge along the Bold Coast Scenic Byway. If you didn’t have a chance to take a puffin cruise yet, you can book a tour with Robertson Sea Tours and Adventures in Milbridge. That was my plan, but unfortunately rough seas that day meant we had to cancel. Luckily I had a chance to spy some of these cute creatures on a boat cruise from Boothbay Harbor a few days earlier.

On your way to Milbridge, be sure to stop at Darthia Farm for some homemade blueberry syrup, tomatillo salsa, and other produce and preserves. If you enjoy fruit wine, you can also enjoy a tasting at Maine’s oldest winery, Bartlett Maine Estate Winery.

picnic table on rocks overlooking water at McClellan Park in Milbridge ME
Picnic area in McClellan Park in Milbridge

Milbridge

If you are hungry, stop for lunch for Mexican food from Downeast Mexican Take out in Gouldsboro or Vazquez in Milbridge or pick up picnic lunch from The Meadows. If you have time for a picnic, McClellan State Park offers beautiful views of the coastline from rocky bluffs. And the best part — you pretty much have the place to yourself.

In the afternoon, it is time for some more outdoor adventure. I took a guided hike with Hazel from Maine Outdoor School on the Hollingsworth Trail in the Petit Manan National Wildlife Refuge in Steuben. As an outdoor educator, she does an amazing job explaining the flora and fauna and talking about the ecology of the area. She also runs guided hikes in other areas and wildlife viewing sunset paddle trips. You can also take a short 1.2 mile hike up Pigeon Hill for beautiful views all the way to MDI on a clear day.

As you can see, it is easy to spend two days exploring this area.

Machias

Bad Little Falls in Machias Maine
Bad Little Falls in Machias

Finish up your day in Machias, one of the larger towns along the Bold Coast Scenic Byway. Make sure to stop in town to enjoy the view at Bad Little Falls Park. There aren’t a lot of dining options, but locals all recommend Helen’s.

If traveling solo or as a couple, The Inn at Schoppee Farm is a wonderful farm stay! I stayed in the River Room on the first floor with gorgeous exposed beams and wide-plank wood floors. The style was decor-magazine perfect with simple, understated furnishings that reflect the history of the farm.

Bedroom at Inn at Schoppee Farm
Inn at Schoppee Farm River Room

Located overlooking the river, the Inn also has direct access to the Sunrise Trail, a multi-use trail for walking, biking, and ATVing. For families, you could look at rooms and suites at The Machias River Inn.

If you have more time, you could add on a day to your Maine road trip for a beach day at Rogue Bluffs State Park, which is a rare sand beach, or Jasper Beach, which is full of rounded colored pebbles.

Day 6: Lubec

Woman on blue dress holding tote bag with a blue anchor standing in front of red and white striped West Quoddy Head Lighthouse

Driving all the way out to Lubec, the easternmost point in the USA, adds a little extra time to your itinerary, but if you have come this far you should make the extra drive — it is worth it! The drive from Machias to Lubec is under an hour and if you are feeling really ambitious, you can get up super early to catch the sunrise at West Quoddy Point Light. You will see the first sunlight hitting the United States that day!

Even if you can’t get there that early, it is well worth the visit. When I was there in early June on a Monday morning I only saw a handful of people during my stop there. Unlike the huge crowds you will find at popular lighthouses like Nubble Light in Cape Neddick or Portland head Light in Cape Elizabeth.

This cute town on the Canadian border is quiet, but popular with tourists who want to take a “two-nation vacation.” You can visit Campobello Island, home to Roosevelt Campobello International Park. Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt’s magnificent summer home is preserved there in a combination indoor museum and an outdoor nature park. A popular thing to do is book a reservation for “Tea with Eleanor” for afternoon high tea.

Nearby, you can explore the Downeast Coastal Conservancy and Cobscook Shores trails. A must-stop in Lubec is Monica’s Chocolates. All chocolate and ingredients are homemade on-site and she will walk you through every variety of her award-winning candy.

Lubec sign

In town, you can stop for lunch at Lubec Brewing Company for craft beer or Cohill’s Inn and Pub for great cocktails. You can either stay overnight or drive 2.5 hours to Bangor for your final stop on the road trip.

Day 6: Bangor

Your final stop brings you back to Bangor. Bangor was once the logging capital of the world and home to a multitude of millionaires. While Stephen King (you can drive past his house) and Senator Susan Collins may be some of the most famous citizens currently, the city’s architecture reflects those earlier times with Greek Revival and Victorian mansions.

Many buildings were destroyed during a fire in 1911, but the downtown today is that of a vibrant small city with cafes, like Fork & Spoon, pubs, breweries, food trucks, and shops.

If you want to learn more about the town’s history, take a tour with the Bangor Historical Society. They offer downtown walking tours, as well as tours of Bangor’s 300-acre Mount Hope Cemetery, the nation’s second-oldest garden cemetery.  You can see where some of the scenes from Pet Cemetery were filmed and the final resting places of Hannibal Hamlin, the 15th Vice President of the United States.

Gravestones at Mt Hope Cemetery in Bangor Maine

The nearby Darlings Waterfront Pavilion is also a popular concert venue, bringing in acts from KISS to Luke Bryan and selling out the hotels in town. Surprisingly, Bangor is also home to a casino hotel, Hollywood Casino Bangor. This is where I stayed when I was in town and what is especially nice about it is, if you don’t gamble you don’t need to go anywhere near the gaming floor to stay at the hotel.

But if that isn’t your scene, there is a nice Residence Inn by Marriott across the street, which houses Timber Kitchen and Bar featuring local cuisine with a great outdoor patio and bar. Next door you can also grab a pint and some boneless wings at Geaghan’s Pub.

This wraps up your Downeast Acadia Maine road trip, but if you have more time you can continue off-the-beaten path by exploring the Maine Highlands including Millinocket Lake and Baxter State Park.

Tips for Planning a Maine Road Trip

Lobster buoys in Corea Maine

Note: This post may contain affiliate links. If you click a link and make a purchase, I may receive a small commission. All opinions are my own.

Getting a chance to see the rugged coast of Maine gives you a taste for what makes Maine such a special place. You will meet real Mainers, but very few tourists, making it a great trip if you want to get away from the crowds but still be outdoors this summer. There are some things to keep in mind though, including:

  • There is not great cell service along this route, unless you have US Cellular as a carrier and even then it is going to be spotty in the parks. Print out directions or download offline maps. You may also want to bring along a GPS tracker. I recently got the Garmin GSPMaps 66i for hiking and it would also work in these situations if I had an emergency.
  • There are also not a lot of dining options in rural Maine, and those restaurants that are open tend to have limited hours. Restaurants often stop serving dinner by 8pm. So while it is tempting to stay out to see one of those beautiful sunsets or make the most of the longer summer days, make sure doing doesn’t mean skipping dinner.
  • For hiking, Maine Trailer Finder often has the best descriptions and directions in Maine, although you can still consult apps like AllTrails.
  • Downeast is famous for its wild blueberries (you may even drive past Wild Blueberry Land in Columbia Falls). Make sure to try some blueberry pie, blueberry ice cream, or other blueberry-flavored foods during your travel.
  • Bring plenty of bug spray and keep in mind that May and June are often black fly season (luckily I didn’t encounter those on this trip) and the mosquito is often described as the Maine state bird. What drives me crazy though are those irritating no-see-ums. It helps to have full bug repellant gear if you are going out in the twilight hours or after dark. I’ve even found those bug nets that go over your hat and cover your head very helpful.
  • Don’t forget to check for ticks and spray Permethrin on your backpack, hiking shoes, and clothing before you head out (not with you in it!)

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Off the beaten path Maine road trip with picture of the West Quoddy Head Lighthouse

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Publish Date: March 25, 2024

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