If the intrepid traveler wanders beyond the boundaries of Istanbul’s sprawling metropolis to see more of Türkiye, it’s often the fairytale chimneys of Cappadocia or the glamorous beaches of Bodrum that steal the spotlight. Yet, perched along the Aegean Coast lies Izmir, a destination rich in history, culture, and charm that often goes unnoticed.
Its nearby neighbor of Ephesus, home to one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, is a popular stop for cruise ship passengers, group tours, and even religious pilgrims, thanks to the city’s remarkably well-preserved ancient ruins and ties with early Christianity.
But who is rushing to Izmir (outside of those who know it is a top destination for wedding gown shopping)? Izmir may not be on everyone’s bucket list, but this charming coastal city offers a refreshing escape and a perfect contrast to the vibrant chaos of Istanbul.
It is a place where ancient ruins meet modern energy. Where the Kemeraltı Bazaar far outshines Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar in its authenticity. Where restaurants line the waterfront and you may just stumble upon pink flamingos dipping their beaks into nearby wetlands.
In just three days, you can immerse yourself in the region’s millennia-old stories, savor the area’s burgeoning food and wine scene, and mingle with locals for a deeper, more meaningful travel experience. This Izmir itinerary blends the iconic landmarks of the ancient city of Ephesus with the ancient gems of Izmir itself (formerly known as Smyrna), and the laid-back vibes of Urla, a charming coastal town known for its vineyards and creative cuisine.
3 Day Izmir Itinerary
Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, or a traveler seeking something different, Izmir offers a chance to see a side of Türkiye that feels both authentic and unforgettable. Here’s how to spend three perfect days exploring Izmir and its captivating surroundings.
I visited in November with a group of travel writers and spent my time exploring under the knowledgeable tutelage of the Neslihan Hurda from Equinox Travel. Even if you explore this region on your own, I’d highly recommend booking a tour of Ephesus with Nesli. Her warmth and friendliness are matched by her deep knowledge of history and culture.
Day 1: Discover the Heart of Izmir
Izmir has so much to see that you will want to dedicate a day just to exploring the city’s history and culture. Begin at the Agora of Smyrna, an archaeological site that dates back to Izmir’s days as a key trading hub in the ancient world. From there, make your way to Kemeraltı Bazaar, a sprawling marketplace where you can wander for hours. Lose yourself in its winding alleys filled with just about anything you can imagine from fresh fish and produce to elaborately beaded gowns or affordable Turkish textiles.
Don’t miss a stop at Kızlarağası Hanı, a centuries-old caravanserai that now houses tea gardens and craft shops and be sure to grab a boyoz pastry, a local favorite, at one of the bakeries. If you were disappointed by the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul (I certainly was), you will be delighted in the authenticity of the modern Agora of Izmir.
For lunch, stop at one of the many cafes that line the narrow alleys within the bazaar, or settle into a family-run restaurant. We enjoyed an excellent meal at Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi (aka Mezze House), a Michelin Bib Gormand 2024 restaurant that offers a wide assortment of excellent mezze where you pay by the weight.
In the afternoon, embrace Izmir’s modern side. Rent a bike or take a tour with Phoenicia Travel and cruise along the Kordon, the city’s coastal promenade and bike path, stopping to soak in the coastal views and grab a Turkish coffee along the way. For those in search of retail therapy, Izmir’s boutique shops are the perfect place to hunt for a one-of-a-kind dress or handcrafted jewelry. Brides-to-be will be enchanted by the rows of designer bridal boutiques found downtown.
In the evening, head over to Dario Moreno Street and take the Asansor (elevator) up to the top of the cliffs that tower over the city. This formerly predominantly Jewish neighborhood offers stunning views of the city and the bay and there is a bar restaurant at the top of the elevator that would make a perfect sunset spot.
Dario Moreno was a famous singer and you will find murals and statues dedicated to him on this small street lined with restaurants, making an ideal dinner spot.
Day 2: Step Back in Time in Ephesus
A visit to Izmir isn’t complete without a day trip to Ephesus, one of the best-preserved ancient cities in the world. An early start means you’ll have time to immerse yourself in its storied ruins before the cruise ship groups arrive. Getting there early is especially important if you are visiting during the summer when temperatures will soar over 100 degrees Fahrenheit and there is limited shade. The other option is to go late in the day, since during the summer months the site is open late.
As I mentioned earlier, getting a private guide to tour Ephesus is well worth the cost. Because while the dozens of stray dogs and cats that make their home in the ancient ruins are friendly and well-cared for, they don’t make the best tour guides.
What struck me upon entering the ancient city of Ephesus was the size and scale of the ruins that have been uncovered. The fact that only 20 percent of the city has been excavated is mind-blowing, as is the state of the preservation. With largely-intact mosaics and frescoes, detailed carvings, and well-preserved structures, it feels impossible that this was all built over 2,000 years ago.
Ephesus began under Persian rule and this important port city was next conquered by Alexander the Great and grew and flourished under the Greek Hellenistic Period. When it later was part of the Roman Empire, over 300,000 people lived in Ephesus. Its decline began in 270 AD, when an earthquake destroyed many buildings and, with Christianity taking over, the temples and buildings weren’t rebuilt and the people moved out and abandoned the city to history.
The highlights of this UNESCO World Heritage Site include the Library of Celsus, a towering symbol of Roman grandeur; the Great Theater, which still hosts concerts and events; the Temple of Artemis, which was one of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World; and the Terrace Houses of the wealthy, whose intricate mosaics and frescoes reveal glimpses of daily life nearly two millennia ago. Just note that visiting the Terrace Houses requires an additional ticket, as does a visit to the Ephesus Experience Museum, which is an immersive digital reenactment of the city’s history.
Altogether, plan on taking at least two to three hours to explore the ancient city of Ephesus. After your visit, pause for a leisurely lunch in nearby Selçuk. We visited on a Saturday and found a vibrant local farmer’s market and enjoyed freshly made meatballs or kebabs and an excellent array of meze at Selçuk Köftecisi.
Religious visitors also like to visit the nearby Basilica of St. John and the House of the Virgin Mary, where it is believed that Mary lived the final years of her life.
Returning to Izmir in the late afternoon, wind down with dinner along the city’s beautiful waterfront promenade. Seafood is a must—grilled fish, calamari, and meze dishes pair beautifully with the view of the Aegean at sunset.
Day 3: Coastal Bliss in Urla
For your final day, escape to Urla, a coastal town just 40 minutes from Izmir. Begin in the port area, at the lively fish market, where the day’s freshest catch is auctioned off. Stroll along the waterfront, take in the small farmer’s market if you visit on a market day, and stop for a traditional Turkish coffee at one of the many waterfront cafes.
You can also walk over to the nearby Urla Klazomenai Ancient City Olive Oil Workshop, where you can see where and how olive oil was produced dating back to the 6th century BC.
From there, it is a short drive to artistic town of Urla Sanat Sokagi, a haven for creatives filled with galleries, pottery studios, and charming cafés. You will want to have lunch and take time to shop and stroll along the cobblestone streets, past colorful houses and fashionable shops. Begendik Abi Lokantasi is a charming restaurant with traditional food and a cozy setting that feels like you have been welcomed into a local’s home.
As the day winds down…it is time for wine. Venture inland to the Urla Wine Trail, a collection of boutique wineries producing some of Türkiye’s finest reds, whites, and rosés. If you only have time for one tasting, reserve a spot at the Urla Winery.
This modern winery has a tranquil setting with a sweeping view of its 700 acres of vineyards. Urla Sarapçilik combines old wine making customs with a modern approach to produce nearly 300,000 bottles annually. Urla produces wines from endemic and internationally-known varietals from Chardonnay and Cabernet to the distinct Bogazkere, which happened to be my favorite.
As your trip comes to an end, you will be left desiring to see more of the authentic side of Türkiye, beyond the beaten path, amazed by all the country has to offer.
Getting to Izmir
It is a short flight from Istanbul to Izmir at just over an hour. The Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB) also offers direct flights from major cities in Europe and the Middle East. The city center is only about 11 miles from the airport, but unless you are using a tour guide, you will want to rent a car.
Additionally, the Port of İzmir serves as a hub for ferry services, with boats connecting the city to nearby islands, such as Chios in Greece, as well as other Turkish coastal cities like Kuşadası and Çeşme.
Where to Stay in Izmir
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For a central location right on the waterfront in a modern hotel, book a stay at the Izmir Marriott. I found the rooms comfortable and stylish. There is a full restaurant downstairs that hosts a robust breakfast buffet. If you enjoy nightlife, the rooftop pool bar is open seasonally or there are dozens of restaurants and bars just steps away.
Tamara Gruber is the Founder and Publisher of We3Travel. A former marketing executive and travel advisor, Tamara is an award-winning travel writer and recognized expert in family travel. Tamara is a member of SATW, NATJA, IFWTWA, and the Adventure Travel Trade Association, and serves on the Board of the Family Travel Association. She is also the publisher of YourTimetoFly.com and the co-host of the Vacation Mavens travel podcast.
