Hidden in the heart of New Jersey is a pizza legend that has stood the test of time. Papa’s Tomato Pies, established in 1912, holds the title of America’s oldest continuously family-owned pizzeria. For over a century, they’ve been serving their famous Trenton-style tomato pies that flip traditional pizza construction on its head. What makes these pies so special? Let’s explore the story behind this Garden State institution.
A Century-Long Family Tradition
Walking into Papa’s Tomato Pies feels like stepping through a portal to 1912, when Giuseppe “Joe” Papa first opened its doors in Trenton. The recipes haven’t changed much since those early days, passed down through three generations of passionate pizza makers. Family photographs line the walls, telling the story of America’s oldest continuously family-owned pizzeria. When other businesses faltered through wars, depressions, and recessions, Papa’s kept the ovens hot and the tomato pies coming. Current owner Nick Azzaro still uses the techniques his grandfather Abie taught him, maintaining the same dedication to quality that has kept customers returning for decades. The restaurant may have moved to Robbinsville in 2013, but the family spirit remains unchanged—authentic, unpretentious, and deeply rooted in tradition.
The Original Trenton Tomato Pie
Unlike your standard New York-style pizza, a Trenton tomato pie follows its own distinct architecture. The dough gets stretched thin, creating a canvas for a layer of cheese and toppings first, with crushed tomatoes added last—a reverse approach that transforms the eating experience. This unique construction allows the tomatoes to caramelize slightly during baking, intensifying their flavor while preventing the dreaded soggy-center syndrome that plagues lesser pies. The crust develops a satisfying crispness that somehow maintains a tender chew. Locals will tell you that a true tomato pie should never be called a “pizza”—it’s a regional specialty with its own identity. The sauce-on-top method creates bright bursts of tomato flavor with each bite, making Papa’s version an enduring Jersey classic worth driving miles to experience.
The Legendary Mustard Pie
Mustard on pizza? The idea might raise eyebrows, but Papa’s signature Mustard Pie has converted countless skeptics into devoted fans. This quirky creation features a thin layer of spicy brown mustard spread directly on the dough before the cheese and sauce are added. The mustard doesn’t overwhelm—instead, it adds a subtle tang and depth that perfectly complements the sweetness of the tomatoes. The heat from the oven mellows the mustard’s sharpness, creating a harmonious flavor that’s both unexpected and addictive. Food critics from across the country have made pilgrimages just to try this unusual specialty. The Mustard Pie represents Papa’s willingness to break rules while honoring tradition, a contradiction that somehow makes perfect sense when you take your first bite of this truly unique New Jersey delicacy.
From Trenton to Robbinsville: A Journey of Survival
The story of Papa’s survival reads like a business miracle. While countless restaurants have come and gone, Papa’s has weathered every storm since 1912—including the Great Depression, two World Wars, and changing neighborhood dynamics. Originally located on Butler Avenue in Trenton, Papa’s later moved to Chambers Street as the city evolved around it. When urban challenges mounted in 2013, the family made the difficult decision to relocate to neighboring Robbinsville rather than compromise on quality or close their doors. Remarkably, they never missed a day of service during the transition. Loyal customers followed them to the new location, proving that what makes Papa’s special isn’t the building but the century-old recipes and family commitment to excellence. Their resilience demonstrates why they’ve earned the title of America’s oldest continuously operating family-owned pizzeria.
Beyond the Pie: Creating a Pizza Pilgrimage
Pizza enthusiasts plan entire road trips around a visit to Papa’s, joining the ranks of food celebrities and critics who’ve made the journey. The restaurant doesn’t rely on flashy marketing—their reputation spreads through generations of families who introduce newcomers to their beloved tomato pies. The menu remains refreshingly simple, focusing on perfecting a few items rather than overwhelming with options. Beyond the famous Mustard Pie, their homemade sausage receives particular praise, with a secret blend of spices that has remained unchanged for decades. What truly sets Papa’s apart is the consistency. Third-generation owner Nick Azzaro works the counter most days, personally ensuring each pie meets the exacting standards established by his grandfather. This hands-on approach has created not just customers but true believers who spread the gospel of Papa’s Tomato Pies across the country.
