I first visited Carmel-by-the-Sea as a romantic getaway and was immediately charmed by the Bavarian-style architecture, art galleries, shops, and local cafes. When I was planning a family trip to the California Coast, I knew we had to add a visit to both Monterey and Carmel to our itinerary. The amazing world-class Monterey Aquarium made that stop a given, but I was also determined to revisit Carmel-by-the-Sea and figure out what to do in Carmel with kids.
Monterey with Kids
After a whirlwind two days in San Francisco, we headed south on Highway 101 on our way to Monterey. Soon we passed through Gilroy, the “Garlic Capital of the World,” and cruised through the strawberry fields of Salinas before smelling the salty sea air that announced our arrival in the Monterey Peninsula.
We arrived in Monterey with one main goal in mind…to see otters in the wild (and in the aquarium of course!) The waterfront in Monterey is a smaller version of Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco. Cannery Row’s old canning factories, made famous by John Steinbeck, are now filled with t-shirt shops and chain restaurants.
Where to Eat in Monterey
If you plan on staying in Monterey for the night, you may also want to look into kayaking with otters in Monterey Bay. Driving down from San Francisco, we arrived hungry and headed straight to lunch at A Taste of Monterey. Tucked away on the second floor of an old cannery, just a couple minutes away from the aquarium, this is a wine shop / restaurant with stunning views of the bay. It may not be great for really young kids or picky eaters, but the bistro offers a wide variety of small plates, flatbreads, salads and sandwiches that will satisfy many appetites.
The food is great, but the real highlight was getting to see the otters frolicking in the bay below. We were incredibly lucky to see these two adorable critters swimming and eating just outside the restaurant windows.
Monterey Bay Aquarium
No matter how many times I visit the Monterey Bay Aquarium, I never cease to be impressed. When visiting with the family, there are number of hands-on exhibits offered for little kids, along with multiple touch tanks and even a fish-cam that shows what the view is like underwater.
And don’t worry, if you didn’t see any otters outside, you can still find them at the aquarium. You’ll want to set aside at least three hours to explore the aquarium and all its wonders — from cuttlefish to octopi to penguins to sea birds and plenty of fish of course. Along the way, the aquarium seeks to educate visitors about sustainable fishing and environmental issues.
Of all the birds, crustaceans, fish and wildlife we saw on exhibit at the Monterey Bay Aquarium, by far the most fascinating were the jellyfish. I also love watching the tides and sealife in the underwater kelp forest.
We only visited Monterey for the day before continuing on to Carmel, but if you want to stay a few days, there are many fun things to do in Monterey with kids.
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Where to Stay in Monterey: Hyatt Regency Hotel and Spa
17-Mile Drive Through Pebble Beach
On your way to Carmel, you may want to take a detour to for a scenic drive along the 17-Mile Drive through Pebble Beach. 17-mile drive is famous for its views of the rugged California coast, world-class golf courses, multi-million dollar homes and the quintessential Lone Cypress tree.
Located just a few minutes south of Monterey, you can enter the drive at either the gate in Pacific Grove or the southern gate in Carmel for an $11.25 vehicle entrance fee (no motorcycles allowed.) If you want to end up back in Monterey or Pacific Grove, you can take an inland loop back to your starting point.
When you pay your entrance fee, you’ll also receive a map that highlights many of the main points of interest along the drive including Point Joe, Spanish Bay, the Fanshell where harbor seals return each spring to give birth, and the famous Lone Cypress, which is now chained onto the rock outcropping to maintain its position. Each stop along the way offers beautiful views of the rocky coast, interspersed with amazing golf courses and wind-bent trees.
There are a few things to keep in mind when you visit 17-mile drive. First, there is a reason why those trees are bent nearly in half, it is very windy! You’ll want to dress in layers because the temperature can vary and the wind makes it feel even colder. Second, while you can still get great views of the seals, keep in mind that it will be from behind a fence that is put there to protect the seal pups from human intruders. Other than that just take your time, bring your camera, and enjoy the amazing views — I know we did!
Carmel with Kids
Carmel’s charm and gorgeous beach makes it a great stopping point on a drive along the California Coast and a home base for exploring nearby.
Things to do in Carmel with Kids
Looking around at all the galleries, wine tasting rooms, upscale shops and cafes, it may not seem like there is much to do in Carmel with kids, but don’t underestimate how much kids can enjoy this peaceful village with all the neon, chain stores, and “modern” distractions stripped away. My daughter says that it was her favorite town in California and just walking around she told us many times how beautiful she thought it was and how much she loved it there. Plus, there is plenty to do with kids…
Carmel Beach
The Carmel Beach is fantastic with a flat, wide expanse of smooth sand with a steady flow of pounding waves. The beach is a short 5-10 minute walk from the Hofsas House down a footpath and a flight of stairs (ask for directions to find this shortcut or walk into town and down Ocean Ave.)
Morning is definitely the time to go, not only because the ocean is tamer, but also because dogs are allowed off-leash and it is great to watch them running, digging and frolicking in the water. I was inspired to buy a house in Carmel, get a dog, and spend my mornings exercising on the beach (after I win the lottery of course). Fortunately, some friendly dog owners could see us admiring their canine pals and lent them out for a while so we could play catch too. Although some of those furry friends were eyeing up our frisbee, which was so graciously provided by Hofsas House.
If you are feeling more adventurous, you can also sign up for surfing lessons down at the beach but let me warn you, of the class that we watched we didn’t see too many people able to stay up. The waves are pretty strong here so if you are looking for kayaking or whale watching, head up to Monterey and pick these up by Fisherman’s Wharf.
Point Lobos State Park
Just a few minutes south of Carmel on Highway 1, Point Lobos State Park is considered the “crown jewel” of the California State Parks and we could definitely see why. Point Lobos is on a peninsula, so many of the trails offer amazing views of the ocean, but getting around can be confusing.
I strongly recommend visiting their website and printing a trail map before you go because they aren’t handed out at the gate and maps and directions aren’t easily found within the park. You may want to pick up a picnic at the 5th Avenue Deli in Carmel before heading out because you can easily spend half a day or more hiking and exploring tide pools.
While hiking you might spot sea lions, harbor seals, elephant seals, sea otters and even orcas. In the winter months you might spy gray whales from land, or see some of the monarch butterflies that winter in this area. On land you could find gray foxes, raccoons, coyotes, striped skunks, opossums, mountain lions, deer, badgers, bobcats and rabbits. On our hike we did come across a beach of harbor seals sunning themselves.
During our visit with branched off to the right after entering the park and headed down towards the Whaler’s Cabin and the small parking lot at Cannery Point. From here, we picked up the 1.4 mile North Shore Trail. The website listed this hike as strenuous, but I think that is overstated. There are some stairs and some roots to step over but the path is clear and the incline, when present, is gradual. We weren’t breaking a sweat.
This trail ends at the Sea Lion Point parking lot, where you can pick up other trails or return the way you came. We ended up not making it the whole way because we noticed the fog was starting to roll in really fast and I got nervous about being on the trails when you literally couldn’t see a few feet in front of you. It was truly amazing how quickly the fog came in so I’d recommend keeping an eye on the weather throughout the day.
Carmel Mission
On the way to or from Point Lobos, plan a stop at the historic Carmel Mission. Founded in 1770 by Fr. Junipero Serra, it is the second oldest mission in California. If you aren’t familiar with missions, it will be helpful to spend time reading the exhibits in the museum to understand the history and goals of the missions.
Fourth grade California students are required to visit a mission so the website also provides some great background information. You can spend as much or as little time as you want exploring the church, the gardens and the museum (we spent about 30 minutes here.)
Exploring Town
If you spend the morning at the beach, spend the afternoon exploring the town of Carmel-by-the-Sea. Children will enjoy playing in Devendorf Park, a stop into Thinker Toys on Seventh Avenue. Just spending time peeking into small courtyards can be such a novelty.
If you have some time without the kids, or if your kids are like mine and don’t mind stopping by some wine tasting rooms, you might consider participating in the Carmel Wine Walk. You can buy a Wine Tasting Passport, which offers a wine tasting flight at any 9 of the participating tasting rooms.
All the tasting rooms are in Carmel’s small downtown so it is easy to walk from place to place, or just pop into a tasting room before dinner each evening. Just be aware that most of the tasting rooms close by 6 or 7 pm. We found that some closed even before their posted hours and only had a chance to visit Scheid Vineyards — but the Passport doesn’t expire so we’ll have to go back!
Where to stay in Carmel with Kids
You will find over 40 small inns and bed-and-breakfasts in Carmel, but what you won’t find are chain hotels or neon lights. The town works hard to keep that small, European-style village feel. In fact, homes in Carmel don’t even have street addresses and residents need to visit the post office to pick up their mail.
Hofsas House exemplifies the town’s warm hospitality. For over 60 years the hotel has been welcoming guests to its 38 spacious, yet unassuming, rooms and suites. Hofsas House is located just a couple of blocks from the heart of downtown and offers views of the sea through the trees. We arrived just in time to see one of their beautiful sunsets from our two-room suite.
The family suite wasn’t fancy, but it was homey and the rooms were enormous. The first room offered a small kitchenette, dining table, wood-burning fireplace, and two-day beds perfect for kids. The main bedroom was also very spacious and the two full bathrooms made getting ready in the morning easy.
Where to Eat in Carmel with Kids
There are even more restaurants in Carmel than there are inns, and with the exception of Starbucks, most are locally owned. Many are pricey and not necessarily family-oriented, so you’ll want to do a little research. Also keep in mind that Carmel is a quiet town and people eat on the early side, so if you are eating with kids you might want to make reservations.
Basil Seasonal Dining — There are plenty of places to eat outside in Carmel and most restaurants offer patio warmers for cooler days. Of these, I’d highly recommend Basil Seasonal Dining. After a long winter back home it was a joy to sit outside on their courtyard patio and our little one was happy to get in on the wine tasting with some grape juice made from wine grapes. Best of all was the fabulous food. My simple salad of arugula, artichokes, chicken, and Edam cheese was so incredibly fresh and delicious, I’ve rarely enjoyed a salad more. Hannah was thrilled with her risotto and Glenn enjoyed his crab sliders.
The Grille on Ocean Avenue — Carrie from the Hofsas House hooked us up with the lovely owners of The Grill on Ocean Avenue. Located right on the main strip, The Grill offers a mix of California cuisine and international offerings at reasonable prices. Also, while the decor is bright and airy, a large stone fireplace gives it a warm, homey feel that fits in so well with the town. Hannah went local and learned how to eat an artichoke (she’s now a fan) and enjoyed the Monterey Sand Dabs, a light, local fish similar to flounder. My strip steak was cooked perfectly and somehow I managed to still have room for their amazing chocolate cake — but that may have just been our dessert stomachs kicking in.
Cantinetta Luca — Located right next to my favorite Blue Dogs (in the George Rodrigue gallery) on Dolores Street, Cantinetta Luca is a beautifully designed Italian restaurant. Cantinetta Luca features a gorgeous bar with high-top tables, exposed brick walls and a semi-private wine room in the back. While there are many amazing pasta dishes to choose from, between the atmosphere, prices and menu, Cantinetta Luca is probably better for a date night than a family outing.
But we have a burgeoning foodie who is used to fine dining so it was a great fit for us. We enjoyed our quiet booth tucked away in the back, looking out at both the kitchen and the wine room. Hannah loved the arancini and the portion was surprisingly large. For dinner, two of us went with the Bucatino alla Romano–pasta with pancetta, shallots, white wine and pomodoro sauce–and it was amazing. But once again, the dinner was overshadowed by dessert (oh, how we overindulge when we travel). The croissant bread pudding was decadently delicious.
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Note: Our stay in Carmel was hosted by the Hofsas House and we thank Carrie for her warm hospitality! We also received a discounted meal at The Grille on Ocean Avenue. All opinions are our own.
Tamara Gruber is the Founder and Publisher of We3Travel. A former marketing executive and travel advisor, Tamara is an award-winning travel writer and recognized expert in family travel. Tamara is a member of SATW and the Adventure Travel Trade Association, and serves on the Board of the Family Travel Association. She is also the publisher of YourTimetoFly.com and the co-host of the Vacation Mavens travel podcast.
